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International Journal of Cultural Studies
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Eating the past

Multiple spaces, multiple times — performing `Ottomanness' in Istanbul

Defne Karaosmanoglu

Bahçessehir University, Istanbul, Turkey, defnekar{at}gmail.com, defne.karaosmanoglu{at}bahcesehir.edu.tr

Culinary issues introduce a particular way of dealing with the construction of history and the processes of differentiation, commodification and exoticism. Food is related to sensory experiences, and taste and smell play a crucial role in the creation and representation of the past. This article studies the past as/through text and performance by looking at how history is brought back, represented and performed by food practices in the present. It analyses a number of Ottoman restaurants in terms of their expression of the Ottoman past and their ways of performing `Ottomanness' in the city of Istanbul.

Key Words: exoticism • Ottoman past • performance • restaurant spaces • taste

International Journal of Cultural Studies, Vol. 12, No. 4, 339-358 (2009)
DOI: 10.1177/1367877909104242


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